2013 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte

White apricots, flint, salted lemons, pastries and almonds here. Hints of white truffle. Still so youthful, sleek and powerful, with a full body and bright acidity, all balanced and in tune. Sophisticated, and yet immensely drinkable. Drink or hold.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Chevalier Montrachet la Cabotte Grand Cru has an intense bouquet with clear honey, yellow flower and subtle passion fruit notes that gradually recede and then are replaced with beeswax and honeysuckle. The palate is straightforward on the entry with fresh lime, citrus fruit and a dab of spice, although it does not quite carry through to the finish that dips before the finish line. Not bad, but it does not quite justify its strong performance from barrel, at least not yet. Tasted May 2016.

As delicate as the straight Chevalier-Montrachet but with a little more punch in the middle. Zesty, bright and with the merest hint of creamy, cedary oak. Pure fruited, better length than most of the Bouchard whites, lacks depth. (JH)