2003 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi

The 2003 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi has integrated its French oak beautifully since I tasted it from barrel. In fact the smaller oak here seems to be have been an advantage in the torrid 2003, as the wine has remained fresher and more vibrant than the Chadderdon bottling. The wine bursts from the glass with a core of primary dark red fruit that caresses the palate with notable depth, richness and weight. Purists might favor the cask-aged Chadderdon bottling for its greater complexity but I have a slight preference for this French oak-aged cuvee in this vintage. This is a striking 2003 Barolo that bridges traditional and modern style with remarkable grace. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2023. These new releases from Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino are impressive. The 2004 Barolos are particularly breathtaking. Over the least few years the wines have shown a remarkable increase in maturity. Fantino remains an under-the-radar estate well worth discovering. Readers should note that Fantino bottles two lots for each of his Barolos. Wines selected by US importer Robert Chadderdon are aged in cask and are therefore more traditional in style, while the wines sold elsewhere are aged in French oak. The two bottlings allow for a fascinating study in the role of cooperage as the wines are otherwise the same. I have provided notes on both sets of wines. Readers will also note a slight name change in the vineyard designation on labels beginning with 2004, but the fruit source is the same as it has always been. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

The 2003 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi (Chadderdon Cuvée) is stunning. Aged exclusively in cask, it is a big, powerful wine with notable detail in its layers of black cherries, tar and menthol. The wine offers superb prec ision, well-articulated aromatics and lovely balance. It is a terrific effort from Fantino, who calls this a “Mascarellian” wine.