2001 Barolo Riserva

The 2001 Barolo Riserva Vigna dei Dardi is a powerful, dense wine loaded with dark, primary fruit. The oak aromas and flavors are well-integrated although elements of the French oak tannins remain. This muscular, explosive Barolo offers notable depth, if not the complexity of its sibling aged in cask. It will require patience, but this, too, is a gem. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2026. These new releases from Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino are impressive. The 2004 Barolos are particularly breathtaking. Over the least few years the wines have shown a remarkable increase in maturity. Fantino remains an under-the-radar estate well worth discovering. Readers should note that Fantino bottles two lots for each of his Barolos. Wines selected by US importer Robert Chadderdon are aged in cask and are therefore more traditional in style, while the wines sold elsewhere are aged in French oak. The two bottlings allow for a fascinating study in the role of cooperage as the wines are otherwise the same. I have provided notes on both sets of wines. Readers will also note a slight name change in the vineyard designation on labels beginning with 2004, but the fruit source is the same as it has always been. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

Likew ise, there are two cuves of the 2001 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi Riserva. Fantino's 2001 Barolo Vigna dei Dardi Riserva (cask-aged cuvee) spent four years in a 20 hectoliter cask. It is a throwback to a traditional style of wine. this Barolo explodes from the glass with a stunning array of dark, perfumed aromatics and flavors, revealing awesome richness and elegance. Fantino was unsure how he would label this wine to differentiate it from the normal Riserva bottling.