2011 Le Montrachet

Tasted blind, the 2011 Montrachet Grand Cru has opened up since I last tasted a bottle (also blind) offering glimpses of honeysuckle and beeswax, even a hint of dried pineapple with time. It feels fresh, effervescent even. The palate is underpinned by a fine thread of acidity, and this time I did not detect any oxidative notes towards the finish, although it did come across as quite "creamy" with accentuated oakiness that suggests it deserves 3-4 more years to reach its plateau. As before, I remain cautious with my assessment. Tasted October 2016.

Medium yellow. Oily aromas and flavors of lemon, iodine and vanillin oak, plus a whiff of butter. Large-scaled, glyceral-rich and powerful, but with uncanny smoothness to the thick, deep middle palate. Still a bit youthfully bound-up (duh!) but round and sweet from the outset. The wine's strong acidity becomes apparent on the very long, fresh back end. Great potential here.

The 2011 Montrachet is an exotic beauty. White pepper, truffles, orange peel, crème brulée, almonds and mint are just some of the seemingly endless aromas and flavors that emerge from the glass. Even with all of its richness, the 2011 remains remarkably light on its feet. With time in the glass, the fruit becomes richer and more vivid, while the minerality also turns more prominent. This is going to be a fascinating Montrachet to follow.