2010 Barolo Sori Ginestra

Mid ruby. Light, high-toned nose. Marked acidity and great freshness and precision. Rather drying finish. Hints of dried grass on the end. Very clean finish. (JR)

From 40-year-old vines that enjoy southern exposures, the 2010 Barolo Sori Ginestra is the estate’s most complete and powerful wine. You can tell that the wine is shaped by rich, compact soils similar to what is found in the Mosconi cru. Barolo Sori Ginestra is a generous, richly textured wine with juicy tannins and a succulent mouthfeel. The tannins are not aggressive, but they do leave their mark. Overall, the wine’s sugars, alcohol, fruit and acidity are expertly balanced. Drink: 2017-2033. Founded in1982 by in laws Guido Fantino and Claudio Conterno, this carefully remodeled and refurbished estate is located atop one of the highest hills in Monforte d’Alba. From a glass lookout point in the winery, you can enjoy a bird’s eye view of the town’s church steeples and skyline. The property includes 26 hectares of vine (Conterno Fantino does not buy fruit) for a production of 140,000 bottles per year. Some 25,000 bottles are Barolo. Starting in 2014, wines will be certified organic. It does not produce a “base” Barolo, choosing instead to focus on its Langhe Nebbiolo. Importer: Empson USA, www.empsonusa.com

Monforte d’Alba. Quite dark ruby with orange tinges. Polished, sweet and really ripe on the nose but with lots of complexity, and skilfully oaked. The palate is much less forward and much more compact than the nose would lead you to believe. Masses of tannins and perfect balancing acidity. The whole is massive as well as complex and yet not heavy. (WS)