2006 Batard Montrachet

Effusive aromas of pink grapefruit, banana, peach, and pineapple rise from the glass of Latour’s 2006 Batard-Montrachet (from purchased fruit). For all of the exotic ripeness suggested on the nose, and its breadth and its polished texture on the palate, this Batard still evinces some freshness as well as a suggestion of stony minerality. Bitter peach kernel and lemon pip add to the finish. I suspect this will always lack the interplay of flavors adumbrated by its Chevalier counterpart, but is a strong candidate for representing true grand cru quality over the next 6-8 years. Louis-Fabrice Latour and oenologue Jean-Charles Thomas presented a 2006 collection that displayed the opulent richness that one would anticipate from such a ripe vintage, and from the Latour house style. Sometimes these wines want a bit for clarity, definition and distinctiveness – occasionally they are rather obviously marked by dairy flavors from their malolactic conversion – but the best of them have much to offer. Since I did not have opportunity to include in my issue 179 report notes on the Chablis bottlings of Simmonet-Febvre – a domaine Latour purchased in 2003 (and which also bottles some lovely sparkling wines) – I have made note of them here. Louis Latour has numerous importers throughout the U.S.