2007 Batard Montrachet

Pineapple, mandarin; hibiscus and orange blossom mark the nose of the Leflaive 2007 Batard-Montrachet. Honey, bittersweet citrus oil, marmalade, apricot preserves, and liquid floral perfume create a sense of seductive ripeness matched by textural opulence. But this lacks the nuance, lift, or intriguing mineral dimension of the Bienvenues-Batard or the Pucelles. A pungent smokiness clings to its bittersweet finish. I imagine this being slightly less age-worthy than the two aforementioned crus, but only time will tell. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661