2009 Chassagne Montrachet Maltroie

The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie emerges from the glass with layers of ripe, exotic fruit that verge on the tropical end of the spectrum. Deceptively medium in body, the Maltroie possesses tons of richness and depth, with hints of mango and pineapple that wrap around the generous finish. This looks to be an early maturing wine and is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. La Maltroie is the first parcel to be harvested at the estate. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Richard Fontaine began harvesting the 2009s on September 6. The malos were fairly quick and were completed by April 2010. The wines were racked in June and bottled in early September. Perhaps it is inevitable with a total of ten different Chassagne premier crus in the lineup, but in this vintage not all of the wines are markedly different from each other. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446

Low-key nose. Sleek and ticks the boxes – quite cool tasting – but not thrilling. Still pretty chewy. (JR)

Very pale, green-tinged color. Very ripe but subdued on the nose, showing less lift than the Vergers. Solid, broad and sweet but with less cut and clarity than the Vergers-and in a very different style from that wine. Hints of pear and stone. These grapes were picked first.