2007 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera

Good medium red. Downright Burgundian nose offers redcurrant, strawberry, menthol, crushed stone and flowers; vibrant yet reticent. Sweet, broad and fine-grained, with a light touch to the slightly imploded flavors of plum, mocha, earth and spices. Finishes impressively broad, with a juicy quality and ripe dusty tannins. Give this four or five years in the cellar.

Monforte d'Alba. Medium ruby with orange tinges. Slightly dusty, yeasty fruit nose. Rustic. A recluse, but I doubt if it will ever come out. (WS)

The 2007 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera opens with an exotic bouquet of candied red fruit, flowers, mint and minerals. This is an unusually opulent, racy style for Grasso. The Gavarini is a touch hot and alcoholic at first, but with several hours of air, that quality seemed to resolve itself nicely. Silky, beautifully integrated tannins frame a finish of exceptional elegance. The personality of the year marks the Gavarini to a significant degree. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. These 2007 Baroli from Elio Grasso are worthy successors to the stunning 2006s. Readers will have to wait until 2012 for the 2006 Barolo Runcot. The more time passes, the greater my esteem grows for this underappreciated and often overlooked grower in Monforte. To be sure Domenico Clerico, Conterno-Fantino and Aldo Conterno get most of the attention in Monforte, but at their best Grasso’s Baroli more than hold their own. A recent magnum of the 2000 Runcot was quite possibly the finest and most elegant 100% new French oak-aged Barolo I have ever tasted. Grasso’s 2007s Baroli saw 30 days of contact on the skins followed by a full 30 months in large, neutral oak casks. Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; Admirality Beverage Co. Columbia Distributing Company, Portland, Oregon; tel. (503) 289-9600