2012 Puligny Montrachet

The palest of the flight. Notably savoury nose. Though less intensely aromatic than the rest. Though it is slightly duller and hotter on the finish than number 3, the Kumeu River. (JR)

Tasted blind at Farr Vintners Kumeu/White Burgundy tasting. The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet Village from the late Anne-Claude Leflaive is reticent on the nose: withdrawn sea spray scents flanked by sherbet and tangerine peel that develop in the glass and lend complexity and vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with a lime cordial-driven entry. This is well balanced with a pleasant fatness to it, subtle tangerine and apricot toward the finish that offers satisfying salinity. This is a fine village cru that should drink well over the next decade.

Subtle aromas and flavors of peach, menthol and mint. Serious and pure if a bit youthfully streamlined. Best today on the dry, rich, rather backward finish, which displays good minerality for village wine. (Incidentally, Leflaive's 2012 Bourgogne Blanc, which I tasted from tank just before it was bottled, is particularly chewy, sweet and complex for its appellation.)