2007 Puligny Montrachet Les Referts
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Carillon’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts – from 40 year old vines – displays fresh lime, Persian melon, white peach, and floral perfume that liquefies on the palate. For clarity, lift, and sheer refreshment, this edges out the other wines in his collection, and reflects Carillon’s own claims for wine from this site as inherently “more mineral, with more structure,” because there is considerable saline, chalky, savory matter seething underneath this wine, and its refreshing brightness and clarity of flavors are arguably merely the flip sides of firm acidity extract. It will probably be worth holding for a couple of years before re-visiting for a further half dozen. Carillon started picking the last of August, which he points out is exactly a week later than conventional calculations based on the early date of flowering would have led one to predict. He chaptalized most wines around a degree, to arrive at finished alcohol levels of 13-13.5% Carillon’s wines spend approximately a year in barrel – 15-20% new – with the lees stirred, followed by six months in tank. Importers: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990 and Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Pale yellow. Aromas of white peach, spring flowers and minerals. Firm and minerally from start to finish, with fruit currently dominated by menthol and saline elements. A rather strict style that finishes distinctly austere but with noteworthy intensity and energy. This appears to call for a good five or six years of patience.
Ripe, nutty nose smells a bit more advanced than the Perrieres (the malo here is also almost finished). In a sweeter style, with harmonious acidity and a flavor of orange oil contributing to an impression of roundness. Less strict than the Perrieres, and distinctly more easygoing than the 2004 version of this wine. Finishes with a firm edge and noteworthy energy.
Carillon’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts – from 40 year old vines – displays fresh lime, Persian melon, white peach, and floral perfume that liquefies on the palate. For clarity, lift, and sheer refreshment, this edges out the other wines in his collection, and reflects Carillon’s own claims for wine from this site as inherently “more mineral, with more structure,” because there is considerable saline, chalky, savory matter seething underneath this wine, and its refreshing brightness and clarity of flavors are arguably merely the flip sides of firm acidity extract. It will probably be worth holding for a couple of years before re-visiting for a further half dozen. Dec 2009, www.robertparker.com