2001 Darmagi

The 2001 Darmagi is impressive. Darmagi is Gaja’s most vintage sensitive red, but the 2001 is truly superb. Dark cherries, plums, bell peppers, sweet herbs and licorice are nicely layered in this vibrant, powerful Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2001 Darmagi brings together the characteristics of cool-climate Cabernet and an extroverted personality that are very nicely balanced. The 2001 is still very much on the young side, although it can be enjoyed today. I am amazed at how well the 2001 has developed over the years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Angelo Gaja isn’t the talkative type too often these days. Most of the time I am greeted, left alone in a room to taste, and then greeted again before I leave. On this day, though, Gaja started talking about vintages, and in particular the misconception that wines from hot years don’t age. Gaja cited 1961, a warm year in Piedmont, and one of the most legendary at the time. The wines aged just fine, added Gaja. What struck me most, though, was how clear Gaja’s recollection was of events that transpired fifty years ago. I know only one other person in Piedmont who has a similarly sharp memory that goes that far back. What does that have to do with these 2001s? Not much, except that it seemed like an interesting anecdote to share. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900

We had been going to serve that delicious wine Ornallaia 2001 Bolgheri (see Ornellaia vertical ) but this was fielded instead and was not such an obvious crowd pleaser, even if it nicely demonstrated the extra reticence of European wines on the nose. This had a tiny bit of Merlot and Cabernet Franc in the blend too. It’s still quite tight and taut, and even has a slight suggestion of the tar of Nebbiolo, perhaps just the character of the Langhe hills so closely associated with Barolo and Barbaresco. It was not a particularly popular wine with the 150 cardholders – like most serious Italian wines it needs time and food. (JR)

The rich and concentrated 2001 Darmagi (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) displays an almost impenetrable dark ruby color along with classic varietal notes of bell pepper and cassis on the nose. It is dense and packed, with plenty of blackberry and plum flavors, excellent length and a spicy note of crushed black pepper on the finish. Although an enjoyable wine, it comes across as heavy and somewhat dull, lacking the elegance and gracefulness that define this producer's best wines in 2001.