1999 Volnay Champans

Deep red with ruby highlights, but Guillaume d'Angerville noted that this premier cru is typically softly extracted and light in color. Compelling, vibrant aromas of blueberry pastille, violet, licorice and spicecake. Incredibly primary and sweet, with its density leavened by harmonious acidity. Pliant dark berry flavors are complicated by hints of flowers and spices. This very pure wine has to be one of the most youthful 1999s I tasted this winter. Finishes with utterly suave tannins and outstanding length. This infant is just beginning to open and should enjoy a long plateau of maturity. D'Angerville described 1999 as "a magical vintage," noting that the yield here was at least 40 hectoliters per hectare. His father Jacques actually held back 4,000 bottles of wine in '99 but Guillaume has released most of these bottles by now to loyal clients of the domain. (ST)

I clearly underrated this wine, not only in terms of its quality but also its longevity as it has evolved more slowly than I originally imagined. However this beauty is close to being ready for prime time with its elegant and pure nose that is just starting to display the first hints of secondary development with its ripe black Pinot fruit and earth nuances. There is excellent richness and concentration to the utterly delicious and increasingly complex flavors that are supported by a still firm yet clearly softening tannic spine, all wrapped in a solidly powerful and impressively persistent finale. For my taste this is almost ready though I would suggest waiting for another 1 to 3 years first though I underscore that the '99 Champans will age gracefully for another 20 years, perhaps longer. Tasted twice in the last few months with similar results. In short, this is terrific and should only be better with time.

The medium to dark ruby-colored 1999 Volnay Champans, from a 4-hectare parcel where 50% of the vines are 40 years of age and the balance over 10 years, displays a sweet blackberry nose. Medium-bodied, this wine has an excellent depth of fruit, a supple, velvety texture, and a fresh personality. Loads of intense blackberry, cassis, plum, and spice flavors can be found in its juicy and expressive character. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Seagram Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725.