1996 Mouton Rothschild

Continuing to develop positively, the wine seems to have entered the start of its drinking window. The tannins softened and the wine has spread out on the palate, allowing to taste and feel the ripe, sweet, fresh currants, spice and blackberries, with its touch of herbs, cedar and leafy tobacco on the nose and palate.

The standout wine at the tasting. Concentration and opulence on the palate, still retaining intense cassis notes. Youthful, deep purple in the glass. Mint notes on the nose work beautifully with the glossy but restrained oak. Still has plenty of acidity giving freshness to the palate, luxurious tannins suggest this still has a long way to go. Distinctly classy. (AWH)

The 1996 Mouton-Rothschild is the high point of what in retrospect was an inconsistent decade for this First Growth. It has a very attractive, classic Pauillac bouquet: predominantly black fruit laced with cedar, freshly rolled tobacco and light graphite scents. It is not lavish, but tightly controlled. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, though not as fine as recent vintages under Philippe Dhalluin. There is satisfying density and gentle grip toward the finish, which feels fresh and contains enough energy to suggest that it is only just reaching its plateau. (NM)