1959 Mouton Rothschild

The 1959 Mouton-Rothschild is one of the great vintages of the era, this bottle flirting with perfection. It has an outstandingly pure, mineral-driven bouquet with stunning delineation and touches of candied red fruit, violet and wild mint. It's just faultless. The palate is a little more plush than the previous bottle, framed by lithe tannins, perfectly judged acidity and a dab of menthol toward the finish as it gains more and more depth with each swirl of the glass. The 1959 is a brilliant Mouton-Rothschild overseen by Baron Philippe de Rothschild. Perhaps it has the edge over the marvelous 1961 these days. Tasted at the 1940s/1950s dinner at Epure in Hong Kong.

The 1959 Mouton-Rothschild is a vintage that I have only encountered once, exactly ten years ago. What a thrilling Pauillac this is. It has an incredible bouquet with brilliant delineation: intense red and blueberry fruit, some of the mint just like the 1982, opulent and sophisticated. The palate is supremely well balanced with supple tannins; it is almost overwhelming intensity as layers of pure black fruit lacquer the inside of the mouth. Extravagant and luscious, this is actually one of the finest First Growths. Just to sit back and enjoy in all its decadent glory. (NM)