2008 Chablis Les Preuses

Quite exotic – as I have come to expect from this cru at this address – the Billaud-Simon 2008 Chablis Preuses is almost Gewurztraminer-like in its litchi and spice notes, which accent a luscious pineapple and peach. But for all of its forward fruitiness and sense of breadth, there is a strong sense of minerality to this wine, albeit one more adamantly chalky than I anticipated. It finishes persistently and generously, if just a bit lacking in focus or juiciness when compared with the terrific corresponding Vaudesir. Here is probably an instance of the wine having been knocked off-kilter by its very recent fining. This deserves revisiting and will probably prove capable of entertaining nobly for the better part of a decade. Bernard Billaud agreed this year to show me his young grand crus in advance of their anticipated May or June bottling, even though they were on their finings. In addition, I was able to have my first taste of his 2007 grand crus. Imported by Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900