2008 Barbaresco Ovello Riserva

The Produttori's 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is a reference point wine for the village, even if, in truth, Ovello is a fairly diverse zone with many exposures. Firm, steely tannins support a core of expressive fruit in this vibrant, energetic Barbaresco. The 2008 is going to require considerable patience, but it is striking, even today. Sweet floral notes reappear on the vivid, utterly breathtaking finish, adding lift, precision and vibrancy. This is a stunning wine from the Produttori. The style is built on tension, energy and focus; in other words, all the qualities Ovello is known for.

The Produttori’s 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is a reference point wine for the village, even if, in truth, Ovello is a fairly diverse zone with many exposures. Firm, steely tannins support a core of expressive fruit in this vibrant, energetic Barbaresco. The 2008 is going to require considerable patience, but it is striking, even today. Sweet floral notes reappear on the vivid, utterly breathtaking finish, adding lift, precision and vibrancy. This is a stunning wine from the Produttori. The style is built on tension, energy and focus; in other words, all the qualities Ovello is known for. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048. Produttori del Barbaresco, one of the world’s top cooperatives, has been making terrific wines for five decades. As good as the wines were in the past, my feeling was that at times the full potential of these sites – widely considered among the very best in Barbaresco – wasn’t being fully captured. The Produttori must have thought the same thing. Beginning in 2001, the Produttori began incentivizing their member growers to cultivate higher quality grapes. At the same time, the winery began a gradual process of rotating out their large 100-hectoliter casks and replacing them with smaller 50 and 75-hectoliter casks. The 2008 Riservas are the culmination of all of that work. I have been anxiously waiting to taste the Produttori’s 2008 Riservas since the end of that year’s harvest, when Managing Director Aldo Vacca told me the Riservas would almost certainly be bottled. Two recent tastings of the entire lineup were more than worth the wait. Simply put, these are the very best young Riservas I have ever tasted from the Produttori. The wines will require considerable patience, but they are stacked and packed with tremendous concentration of fruit allied to structure. It is a vintage Piedmont drinkers love to love, where the individual signatures of each terroir are clearly delineated. Best of all, the Riservas remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Congratulations to Aldo Vacca, longtime oenologist Gianni Testa and the entire team at Produttori del Barbaresco for this magnificent collection of 2008 Barbareschi. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Good bright medium red. Rather stunted nose shows a liqueur-like ripeness to aromas of redcurrant and mocha. Fat, rich and moderately sweet, with red fruit flavors quickly going into a shell in the glass. Conveys an impression of lower acidity than the Asili. Finishes with broad, building tannins that come across as a bit greener than those of the 2009 bottling. Am I catching this in an awkward stage? Nov 2013, www.vinous.com