2009 Volnay Mitans

The 2009 Volnay Les Mitans is impressive. A highly expressive, beautifully articulated bouquet leads to a core of dark red fruit, mint and crushed flowers. This is an explosive, textured Mitans graced with incredible class and a crystalline purity that is hard to fully describe. The finish is simply eternal. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. This is a stunning set of wines from Michel Lafarge. The estate farms biodynamically. The wines were left on their gross lees through the malos, which ended in April-May. Lafarge did one racking, in August, 2010, when he moved the wine off their gross lees, leaving just the fine lees. I tasted the 2009s from barrel. Lafarge planned to bottle later in Spring 2011 with no fining or filtration, as is his usual custom. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

(from 40- and 65-year-old vines) Good medium red. Complex aromas and flavors of redcurrant, cherry, blood orange, minerals and mocha, with complicating musky soil tones. Sweeter and lusher than the premier cru cuvee, a step up in flavor intensity. Deep, serious and nuanced wine, but still reserved today. Finishes with firm tannic spine and a saline element.

Lightish cherry red. Sweet complete nose. Very rich and sweet on the palate. Charming! But with good freshness too. Great balance and attack. Not heavy but not light either. Tingle on the finish. (JR)