2006 Barolo

The 2006 Barolo is the finest young, straight Barolo I have tasted from Borgogno in a long time, maybe ever. It embodies everything that Barolo is, from the mysterious bouquet to the mid-weight expression of fruit to the firm yet regal tannins. This is simply gorgeous juice. A sensual melange of sweet dark cherries and leather lead to freshly cut roses, tar and licorice in this deceptively medium-bodied wine. It reminds me of the Baroli I tasted as a young person, the wines that taught me the breadth that only Nebbiolo is capable of. The powerful finish suggests the wine will age for a number of years, but with some air, the 2006 is striking even today. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2036. This is by far the most impressive set of wines I have ever tasted from Borgogno, one of Barolo’s historic houses. The Baroli are terrific, but the biggest improvements may very well be with the entry-level wines, which up until recently were just a little bit better than undrinkable. Now that many of the more traditional producers have been re-discovered, so many of those producers’ entry-level wines have risen in price. The entry-level bottles from Borgogno are great choices for readers who appreciate the more classic side of Piedmont and want to be gentle on the budget. Kudos to proprietor Oscar Farinetti, his son Andrea, and their team. Borgogno may very well turn out to be one of the most remarkable turn-arounds in the history of Barolo. Readers who might have been concerned that the Farinettis would revolutionize the traditional style of the house have nothing to worry about. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799