1971 Barolo

1971 Cantina (Bartolo) Mascarello Barolo—Medium faded red. The 1971 shows advanced aromas of tobacco and leather along with a persistent note of barnyard that does not blow off. It is a soft spoken, hushed wine without much fruit, but with a lovely open and delicate texture on the palate. Predictably this was more evolved than when last tasted from 1.9 liter magnum (see Piedmont Report Issue 1) and did not improve once opened. It appears to be a wine to drink sooner rather than later. Perhaps overly seduced by the romantic notions of ‘terroir' and ‘tradition' I used to think that it was acceptable for wines like this to have dirty aromas and flavors. I now believe that these qualities are serious defects that mar what could have been - and should have been - unforgettably great Barolos. While the 1971 is not a wine for the uninitiated, it will appeal to those who enjoy this producer's unique expression of Barolo, with both its prized qualities and flaws on display. Personally I wish this wine was cleaner, especially on the nose. I place Mascarello's 1971 behind the great 1978, 1982, and 1985 vintages.