2008 Brunello di Montalcino

One of the very best wines of the year, Pian dell’Orino’s 2008 Brunello di Montalcino is drop-dead gorgeous. Sweet dark cherries, cloves, menthol, tar and licorice are some of the many notes that are woven into fabric of superb elegance and finesse. All the elements are in perfect balance in this utterly harmonious Brunello. Deeply layered and spiced throughout, the 2008 is simply stunning. The 2008 isn’t as explosive as the very best vintages, but it is still a remarkable achievement for the year. Hints of orange peel and cloves add an exotic flair on the finish. This is a dazzling effort. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028. It is amazing how far Pian dell’Orino has come in just a few years. Proprietors Jan Erbach and Caroline Pobitzer own what is now one of the very top estates in Montalcino, hands down. Tasting the wines from barrel is an amazing experience equaled by visits in only a handful of top domaines in the world. In this cellar, Sangiovese boasts striking finesse and crystalline purity. Jan Erbach describes 2008 as a difficult year, with rain during the flowering and significant disease pressure. Conditions improved during September and into early October, when the last of the fruit came in. Yields are down 40% across the board. I still think the straight Brunello is the best wine at Pian dell’Orino. Going forward, Pian dell’Orino will no longer issue a Riserva, but when conditions allow will release single-vineyard designates. The fruit is so pure here, I am not sure that extended aging in oak is really necessary. Readers who haven’t discovered Pian dell’Orino are in for a treat. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404