2005 Brunello di Montalcino

The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino flows from the glass with impressive depth and persistence in its richly-textured dark fruit. The wine possesses dazzling inner perfume that emerges over time to add further complexity. Dark raspberries, licorice and tar make an appearance on the intense finish. This is one of the more imposing 2005 Brunellos readers are likely to come across. Ideally the wine should be opened a few hours in advance to allow some small imperfections to blow off. The Brunello is made from the Cancello Rosso and Pian Bossolino vineyards. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Pian dell’Orino is one the most promising young wineries in Montalcino. I tasted an impressive set of Brunellos from cask during a recent visit. Proprietors Caroline Pobitzer and Jan Erbach have boundless passion, energy and conviction. It will be fascinating to see what develops here in the coming years. The estate itself is centrally located and offers gorgeous view of nearby Il Greppo. The vineyards are located in Montalcino and Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Pian dell’Orino works in a non-interventionalist fashion. Biodynamic farming, long macerations with indigenous yeasts and no fining or filtration are at the heart of the estate’s approach. At their best, these are some of the most compelling wines being made in Montalcino today. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2008 Rosso, which had not been bottled by press time. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404