2009 Barolo Castiglione

Mid ruby with orange rim. Almost mouthwatering red fruit with firm tannins and a hint of oak on the finish. Very appetising. (WS)

The 2009 Barolo Castiglione delivers a radiant but subdued quality with polished notes of dry mineral, black fruit, tar, licorice, leather and many more levels of complexity. This entry-level Barolo demonstrates that great results are achieved in 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. If forced to inhabit a desert island that only served the wines of a single producer, I would want Luca Currado to be that supplier. He excels at everything he does from his castle perch at the heart of Castiglione Falletto. Despite the difficult 2009 season, his wines remain extraordinary. In fact, they are among the best I tasted from the vintage. Importer: Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Vietti's entry-level Barolo, the 2009 Barolo Castiglione is quite pretty and open in this vintage. Sweet floral notes meld into expressive dark red fruit, anise, cinnamon and rose petals. This is an especially open, racy Barolo that should offer plenty of early appeal. While the sheer excitement of the best years may be slightly missing, in exchange, readers will find a delicious Barolo that will require minimum, if any, cellaring. I especially like the way the wine continues to flesh out in the glass. In 2009, Vietti did not make their Villero Riserva. Instead, that juice went into the Castiglione.