1991 Meursault Les Charmes

Among the whites, I was especially taken with a Lafon’s 1991 Meursault-Charmes and Meursault-Perrières which were models of elegance and precision. The Perrières had a touch more minerality and freshness, but both wines were extraordinary.

The 1991 Meursault-Les Charmes displays incredible extract, remarkable power, fabulous richness, and a multi-dimensional personality. This superb wine is oozing with mineral-like, buttery, popcorn and apple-blossom-scented fruit. Long, unctuous, and chewy, this formidably endowed wine should drink beautifully for another 10-15 years. Lafon's 1991s are the wines of the vintage. Modestly, Lafon says he took some unnecessary gambles by waiting out the rains and picking late, harvesting fruit that was not diluted. The results are splendidly rich, full-bodied wines with amazing intensity. They are as exceptional as the 1990s, and superior to Lafon's 1988s, 1987s, and 1986s. Average yields were 25 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 55-70 at other domaines. Three of the four single-vineyard Meursaults were outstanding. What Lafon achieved in 1991 is extraordinary. Most of the cuvees of white wine were put in the bottle with neither fining nor filtration. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA.

Expressive aromas of lemon, lime and mint, along with a light note of sulfidey reduction. Concentrated, sweet flavor of lemon cream pie. Quite suave and smooth. This was aged in all new oak, but is the first of these vintages in which the wood is fully integrated, says Lafon. Drink now or over the next several years. A great effort for the vintage.