1996 Chevalier Montrachet

The 1996 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a lucid golden color, just slightly burnished. The bouquet is fragrant and mineral-driven, yellow flowers, honeysuckle and a hint of melted wax. I noticed just a touch of oxidation after an hour in the glass. The palate is beautifully balanced with an entrancing silver bead of acidity and wonderful tension. This has stunning precision after more than 20 years, yet my main impression is the sheer weight and density of this Chevalier-Montrachet and its linear, saline stony finish that might be compared to a super-charged Muscadet. It feels undiminished after all this time. It was a stunning wine just after bottling and it is just as stunning now. Tasted at a private dinner.