1996 Puligny Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere

The monopole (solely owned) Puligny-Montrachet Clos De La Mouchere was a cow pasture for 70 years before Henri Boillot's family re-planted it with vines in 1939. Since the vineyard has not undergone any re-plantings since 1939 it is now uniformly 58 years old. Located under the Clos de La Garenne, it is bordered by Clavoillon to the south and Les Perrieres to the east. Boillot's 1996 reveals a smoky minerality on the nose and a medium-to-full-bodied, silky and fabulously focused, concentrated personality. This Clos De La Mouchere is packed with beautifully ripe and rich white peaches, pears and stones that are seemingly driven across the palate by this wine's strident acidity. Projected maturity: 2003-2010. Henri Boillot, the brother of Jean-Marc Boillot and brother-in-law of Gerard Boudot (of Maison Etienne Sauzet fame) is responsible for the family estate (Domaine Jean Boillot) that bears his father's name, as well as for a small negociant business he has recently created. To assist readers in differentiating the two, I have placed an asterisk (*) beside the negociant bottlings. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel (212) 818-0770.