1989 Barolo Rocche

The 1989 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia presents an intriguing combination of softness and silkiness in the tannins that is typical of this vineyard, along with firmer qualities from the traditional vinification and aging. Cedar, spices and tobacco are some of the nuances that emerge from this wonderful, classic Barolo. The 1989 shows a richer tonality of color than the 1990, along with a corresponding greater degree of freshness. The wine develops splendidly in the glass, as layers of dark menthol, dried roses and dried cherries come to the fore. Over time the wine seems to gain freshness and the aromatics become even more expressive. Firm, dusty tannins round out the long, impressive finish. Here, too, very early signs of oxidation have begun to set in, but the 1989 appears to have a slightly longer drinking window than the 1990.

The 1989 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia presents an intriguing combination of softness and silkiness in the tannins that is typical of this vineyard, along with firmer qualities from the traditional vinification and aging. Cedar, spices and tobacco are some of the nuances that emerge from this wonderful, classic Barolo. The 1989 shows a richer tonality of color than the 1990, along with a corresponding greater degree of freshness. The wine develops splendidly in the glass, as layers of dark menthol, dried roses and dried cherries come to the fore. Over time the wine seems to gain freshness and the aromatics become even more expressive. Firm, dusty tannins round out the long, impressive finish. Here, too, very early signs of oxidation have begun to set in, but the 1989 appears to have a slightly longer drinking window than the 1990. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. The Brovia family purchased their holdings in the Rocche vineyard in 1968. Their 1989 and 1990 Barolos from that site are drinking beautifully today although they need to be enjoyed over the coming years as they are not immortal. Stylistically, the wines speak quite eloquently to the nature of both vintages, but they are decidedly more angular and firm than the Barolos the estate is making today. At the time, Brovia aged their Barolos in Slavonian oak casks rather than the French oak casks employed today. History buffs will want to note that Brovia’s first vintages for their Barolo Garblet Sue’, Barolo Villero and Barolo Ca’ Mia are 1985, 1991 and 1995 respectively. Readers will have a hard time finding a kinder family in Piedmont than the Brovias, so it is especially nice to see the significant strides in quality the estate has made in recent years.

Although the 1989 Barolo Rocche starts slowly, it is extremely full-bodied, backward, firm, and loaded with tannin. The wine's dusty, cherry aromas of tar, as well as its massive weight suggest there is more than enough extract to stand the test of time. This old style, traditional producer believes in long macerations, resulting in frightfully tannic, tough, closed wines that are loaded with concentrated fruit. In lighter vintages there can be too much tannin and structure for the wine's extract. In years such as 1989 and 1990 (provided a reader is willing to wait 7-10 years), these wines should prove to be spectacular - classic, old style, textbook Barolos. All of these offerings are cleanly made, old styled, enormously thick and tannic Barolos that require 5-10 years of cellaring; they are capable of lasting for 30 or more years. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, New York, NY.