2007 Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes

Not much nose. Broad and evolved on the palate. Competent but not that exciting. (JR)

Intensely ripe scents of Normandy cider, peach, and decadent lily on the nose of Marc Morey 2007 Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes are followed by a surprisingly chalky and dense – by no means over-ripe or too-soft – palate impression, with subtly tart and juicy apple, pineapple, and peach serving for refreshment. Faintly bitter fruit pit notes are nicely integrated to offer a bit of counterpoint, and the forward fruit and lushness of finish here will make it a crowd pleaser. It’s not as though there are no mineral aspects here: a certain sense of chalkiness is very much present. I would plan on enjoying this over the next 3-4 years. Bernard Mollard began picking September 3 and brought in his crop in short order, in the end chaptalizing no more than half a degree. His wines underwent malolactic conversion already by early Spring – typical at this domaine – and were bottled at one year. The estate’s acreage is supplemented by contracts on five parcels in which they officially act as negociant, but exercise considerable control. “I like the way 2007 respects the terroir,” comments Mollard. “You can well tell the difference from one site to another.” I don’t disagree in general, but a more obvious feature of his 2007 collection – and a very flattering one – is sheer forwardness of ripe fruit, which results in a very strong family resemblance. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Slight struck-match reductive note, mineral. Dry and taut and yet really zesty. Bit of a coiled spring right now. Mouthwateringly fresh and still it lingers on and on. (JH)