1988 Vigna l'Apparita

The 1988 L’Apparita is starting to fray, but, it, too, has aged very nicely. Game, smoke, tobacco and mocha notes are all signatures of a wine that is perhaps a bit past peak. Looking back, though, the 1988 has aged well considering the vines were quite young at the time and that these were very early days in Castello di Ama’s present-day history.

When all is said and done, the 1988 must t be considered among the greatest of the L'Apparitas. Hard candy, rose petals and cloves lead to layers of expressive red fruits in the 1988 Apparita. A sensual, heady wine, the 1988 is all about ripe, racy fruit and exotic aromatics. The 1988 has barely budged since I last tasted it a few years ago. White truffles and pomegranate are some of the nuances that add raciness and pure flair on the finish. I especially like the vibrancy and purity of the fruit here. The harvest too place on September 30, quite late for Ama and Merlot in general.

I have never had any doubts about Castello di Ama's magnificent Merlot. The 1988 Vigna L'Apparita is a spectacular wine, with black/purple color, and a huge nose of cassis, black-cherries, licorice, and vanillin. It offers staggering concentration, great definition, and a medium to full-bodied, terrific finish. Although there is plenty of tannin, the copious quantities of fruit overwhelm it. While approachable now, this Merlot should age beautifully for 10-15 years. Made in frightfully tiny quantities, it will require "insider" contacts to find a bottle or two. Importer: Divino, Chicago, IL.