1998 Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres

The yellow fruit and acacia blossom-scented Puligny-Montrachet Perrieres is a rich, concentrated, well-focused and defined wine. Pears and peaches vie for the taster's attention in this beautifully fashioned effort. It would have merited a more exalted review were it not for an almost tannic dryness in the finish. Projected maturity: now-2006. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802, Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990, Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel (516) 364-1850 and, under the "Cuvee Nicole" label, Fran Kysela, Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.