2005 Le Montrachet

(the malo finished in August of '06, and the sugar fermentation lingered until the second winter) Reserved but nuanced nose combines menthol, white pepper, minerals, clove, iodine and anise. Hugely rich, tactile and sweet, with a black hole of spicy fruit. This has moderate alcohol of 13.2% but comes across as fully ripe. Less open than the Batard but also finer-grained. Like an essence in the mouth. Perhaps most impressive today on the back end, which features a sappy, chewy texture; building, soil-driven flavors of licorice and spice; and great lift. Wow!