2007 Le Montrachet

The Remoissenet 2007 Montrachet (of which there are 7 barrels) is even more musky, decadent, and redolent of ripe peach on the nose than the corresponding Batard. It's also denser on the palate, with a scintillating liquid concentration of heady lily and heliotrope perfume. Polished and creamy in texture, this is persistently expansive and soothing rather than dynamic in the manner of the Batard, with hints of vanilla, toast, and caramel adding a faintly confectionary tone. This Montrachet transcends the vintage norm in terms of sheer richness and suggestions of sweetness – the personality of the Batard being more vintage-typical – and one can look for some additional complexity as its baby fat wears off over the next half a dozen or more years. The well-known if not always entirely venerable house of Remoissenet began a new life in 2005 when it was purchased by investors and wine lovers Edward and Howard Milstein of New York; merchant Todd Halpern of Toronto; and (with a minority share) Louis Jadot. The new owners installed Jadot veteran Bernard Repot as manager and Claudie Jobard as winemaker to oversee less a renovation of the facilities than the establishment from scratch of a new winery. With one major exception (Le Montrachet) the revived Remoissenet has depended on establishing new sources of supply, a project that – along with marketing – is being spearheaded by long-time Wine Advocate associate Pierre-Antoine Rovani. The emphasis will be on contract fruit or must – although Remoissenet still owns acreage of Pinot Noir vines in and around Beaune – and then very selectively. Remoissenet's substantial share of Montrachet alone offers them a unique opportunity not only to bargain with growers, but to establish a high market profile, and the quality of 2007s here – following on the heels of an impressively rich if occasionally overly woody and ponderous collection of 2006s – confirms this as a negociant to be reckoned with. The barrels used here, incidentally, are now split between 350 liter capacity and standard 225 liter barriques. Importers include The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460, Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392-6995.