2006 Le Montrachet

Representing 9 barrels, all from purchased fruit grown on the Chassagne side of the cru, Jadot’s 2006 Montrachet smells decadently of heliotrope, fading lilies, over-ripe peach, and grilled pineapple; comes to the palate predictably full and rich yet surprisingly fresh and invigorating; and lays down a plush, faintly warm, rich but not especially fine-grained carpet of flavor in the finish. While less dramatic than the Batard or mysterious than the Chevalier, this is nonetheless truly grand, and surely capable of at least a decade’s fascinating evolution. The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.) Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300