2005 Le Montrachet

(tasted from tank; 14+% alcohol) Aromas of iodine, clove, apple and minerals. Superrich, fat and sweet but a bit youthfully subdued, even musclebound today (this was moved from barrel ten days before my visit), with the fruit in the deep background. But this rock-solid wine boasts terrific acidity and palate-staining persistence. There's virtually no sign of new oak today, and yet this wine is very difficult to taste. Lafon told me this was the first time he ever picked his Montrachet later than DRC.

This was the wine Dominique teased me I might not have time for in view of the train I had to catch after tasting here. Most amusing. I’m so glad I managed to taste it. Broad and yet very very exciting and nervy – just bursting with wild flowers and life. A great bouquet already plus crystalline precision in terms of structure. So full of life it seems to be running rings round the taster. Truly magnificent, and very long. (JR)

Complex, brooding nose shows clove, iodine and charry oak. Hugely rich and ripe, with sweet flavors of pit fruits and spicy oak. As chewy as a solid and hard to spit. But sound acids and a piquant note of crystallized lemon peel give this huge, powerful wine plenty of verve. Incredible palate-staining finish. This could not be more different in style from the 2004 example, which is all about elegance. Due to some hail in July, which retarded ripening, these vines were picked last, and the alcohol is just over 14%. In fact, Lafon told me that he finished harvesting his Montrachet after the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti did.