1994 Barbaresco

This was a difficult year, apparently, with frost at flowering (so a small crop) and rain at harvest. Garnet with a touch of brick at the rim. Both more earthy and more floral than the 2004. Undergrowth, sweetness of fruit entwined with sweet rose notes. Lovely fresh energy. Some sweet cedar and a really minor leafiness. Intoxicating sweetness and decay and sweet cherry and plum. Touch of liquorice. Death in Venice sort of decadence. Then there’s a delicate perfume. Scented and so fine and papery tannins. Finishes dry and delicate. All the oak has disappeared. Long and paper-fine and dry. (JH)