2007 Puligny Montrachet Les Clavoillons

The Leflaive 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon – a significant portion of which, like other crus here, is worked by horse –smells of fresh apple, melon, lemon zest, and hints of brown spices. Lush and lusciously fruited on the palate it combines apple, peach, and melon with a pungently bitter-sweet suggestion of orange marmalade. With less lift and refreshment and a touch of warmth vis a vis other wines in this group, it partly compensates by dint of sheer richness of flavor and texture. I would be inclined to plan on enjoying it within 5-6 years. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Very pale color with a green cast. Complex aromas of lime, white peach, white flowers and crushed stone. Then silky, sweet and penetrating, with nicely integrated acidity contributing structure and verve. A linear, firmly built wine that really vibrates on the persistent, aromatic finish. Remy describes this wine as "more solid and larger-scaled than the 2004 but with similar acidity and minerality." Classy and classic Puligny.