1964 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva

A fitting conclusion to the evening, Giacosa’s 1964 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano embodies all the reasons we buy wines to cellar them, most importantly the conviction that great wines can ascend to the divine if given enough time in bottle to become fully expressive. The 1964 is poured and all conversation ceases. Immediately. This is what fine, aged Nebbiolo is all about. Translucent in color, with no signs of oxidation, the 1964 is simply magical. Dried rose petal, herb, mint and red stone fruit notes grace the palate in an utterly exquisite expression of this great Neive vineyard. What a treat it is to taste and drink Bruno Giacosa’s first single-vineyard Barbaresco.

Even after all these years, the 1964 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano remains one of the greatest wines Bruno Giacosa ever made. Beautifully scented in the glass, with silky tannins and a real sense of translucent finesse, the 1964 dazzles from the minute it is opened. I usually don't open wines of this age too far in advance, but the 1964 has no problem handling air. Rather, the three of us have a problem exercising any sort of discipline, and the bottle is polished off rather quickly. From the beginning, 1964 was a vintage praised for a rare combination of high quality and abundant yields, the result of an even, uneventful growing season. Decades later, there is an effortless grace in the wine that comes through loud and clear. The 1964 is also a reference-point wine, as it is the first declared single-vineyard Barbaresco Giacosa made from the Stupino family's Santo Stefano vineyard in Neive. This is quite possibly the best bottle of the 1964 I have had. Tonight, it is simply unforgettable.

Giacosa’s 1964 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano was pure finesse and silk on the palate, with sweet dark red fruit, captivating perfume and more refined, seductive tannins imaginable. I have had the privilege – and it is a privilege – to drink the 1964 a number of times and it has never been less than an emotional wine. Even though the 1964 has surprising freshness for a wine of its age, the fruit is starting to lose some of its intensity, so I plan on finishing my remaining bottles over the next year.