2006 Meursault Charmes

The Matrot 2006 Meursault Charmes smells and tastes of ripe white peaches drenched in honey and brown spices, with bitter grapefruit rind and lemon pip accents adding a pleasing contrast to the sense of sweetness engendered by high ripeness and glycerin. Creamy and enveloping, this is deeply rich and savory, harboring some real mystery, yet without obtrusive heat from its 14.8% alcohol. The Domaine Matrot officially consists of three estates of unequal size, each assigned its own appellations, vinified in separate cellars. But there is a common direction, and the labels differ only in their small print. Thierry Matrot did not begin picking until September 25, as late as any vigneron I encountered, and furthermore worked backwards by the standards of most Burgundy vintners: starting with Bourgogne, he finished (in early October) with his top crus. Matrot acknowledged the rapid evolution of the fruit, but arguing that -the acids concentrated along with the potential alcohol, so the wines are in equilibrium.- That claim must count as controversial - some of these wines betrayed bitterness or heat, and all are weighty and exotic - but on the whole, these outsized wines make a plausible case for their distinct identities. That said, one caveat: I would be inclined to enjoy all of these wines young, even the best of them within 3-4 years. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 and Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400