2010 Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles

In my view, the 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles is the most complete of the Puligny premier crus. It covers every inch of the palate with stunning depth and richness. Layers of expressive fruit flow through to a creamy finish laced with smoke, licorice and spices. All the elements are in the right place. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Vincent Girardin recently sold his operation to Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois, which previously had an ownership stake in the company. As part of the transaction, Girardin keeps eight hectares of vineyards, from which he will continue to supply the house. I am told that all the other fruit contracts remain in place, ensuring continuity in the maison’s range. Long-time winemaker Eric Germain, who has worked alongside Girardin for ten years, remains at the helm. So far, it looks like a little has changed, but it is early days so we will see. Germain told me the 2010s were harvested beginning on September 5. The premier and grand crus spent 18 months in oak (20% new), followed by two months in steel before being bottled in April and May 2012. As I wrote last year, the Girardin wines have undergone a pretty dramatic stylistic shift over the last few years. Today, the wines are made in a brighter, more focused style with less of the overt richness and oak influence the winemaking team believes was contributing to the premature evolution of the wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Pale greenish yellow. Perfumed aromas of pineapple, nut oil and flowers. Rich, ripe, full and sweet, with impressive palate presence and a firm, citrussy finish. As plump as this is, it's still rather unforthcoming in the middle palate. In fact, this is even a bit austere in a positive way.