1983 Latour

The 1983 Latour is a delightful surprise. It is a vintage that I had not seen for a few years, and I had just two vague recollections of an ordinary First Growth; this was far superior and unquestionably the best bottle I have encountered. Modest bricking on the rim. The harmonious bouquet is fragrant and well defined, demonstrating a little leafiness with hints of leather. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and a touch more fruit than I would have predicted, and laced with tobacco and pencil lead. Previously I lamented that the 1983 lacks vigor and vivacity. While this bottle is not the liveliest I have ever met, it has sufficient energy at 35 years to give much drinking pleasure. In a word: sedate. Tasted blind at Brat restaurant.

This was a very good bottle. Dark vibrant crimson. Very concentrated and sweet with an intense nose reminiscent of liquorice that almost reminded me of Syrah. Quite amazing persistence with an impressively fresh finish. Because the bottle I'd chosen had been a 1961 that was a little disappointing on first opening, I thought this could have been it – a sign of how winning this 1983 was. (JR)

Magnum.   Mid crimson with a ruby rim. Perhaps the most winning of all these vintages to drink now. Engerer said of it, rather dismissively, that it was 'rather Merlot' in character. Still those minerals but much very broad, developed and quite ripe and complex in character. Very persistent and really quite flattering. It hardened up a little in the glass after a while but this is a lovely wine to drink now. (JR)