1998 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

Exotic, tangy aromas of soft citrus fruits, peach and licorice. Solid and rather fat, but comes across as heavier and less precise than the Pucelles, perhaps due to a less gentle pressing. The combination of the new oak and a slight phenolic character gives the wine a youthful rigidity.

As I had experienced a great deal of difficulty tasting through Domaine Leflaive's 1998s a year ago due to their high levels of sulphur, Anne-Claude Leflaive was kind enough to allow me to retaste them. The wine was opened two hours prior to my tasting it. The 1998 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet exhibits toasted mineral aromas. It has an excellent attack and mid-palate, yet leads to a somewhat dry finish. Fat, medium-bodied, and complex, this wine tastes older than it is. Spices, dried honey-laced minerals, and touches of spice cake can be discerned in its flavor profile. It is delicious to drink today, as its personality would merit an outstanding score were it not for its finish, yet readers should note that it will require near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Pierre Rovani, Wine Advocate # 133 Feb 2001

As I had experienced a great deal of difficulty tasting through Domaine Leflaive's 1998s a year ago due to their high levels of sulphur, Anne-Claude Leflaive was kind enough to allow me to retaste them. The wine was opened two hours prior to my tasting it. Feb 2001, www.robertparker.com