2009 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

The 2009 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet emerges from the glass with juicy peaches, butter, spices and a host of other rich aromas and flavors. The wine gains volume and dimension in the glass. The Bienvenue is one of the more opulent of the 2009s at Girardin. This is the first parcel Girardin harvests. That notwithstanding, the acidities are always on the low side here.

The 2009 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet emerges from the glass with juicy peaches, butter, spices and a host of other rich aromas and flavors. The wine gains volume and dimension in the glass. The Bienvenue is one of the more opulent of the 2009s at Girardin. This is the first parcel Girardin harvests. That notwithstanding, the acidities are always on the low side here. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Vincent Girardin is among the producers who have made the most dramatic changes in response to the issue of premature oxidation. Girardin has increased the amount of time his wines spend on their lees, has lowered new oak, has eliminated batonnage and has basically re-built his entire approach from the bottom up, which I have to say, is quite impressive. The 2009s were harvested beginning on September 15, with natural alcohols in the 12.5-13% range. The wines were bottled between mid-March and mid-May 2011. Today the 2009s are quite fresh and still showing some of the effects of their recent bottling. It is safe to say the wines Girardin is making today are quite different from those of the past. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Big and bold with some oak but lots of ripe fruit and not too much sweetness. Good freshness. Not outstanding but quite creditable. (JR)