1994 Puligny Montrachet Champ Canet

With the exception of the tight, closed Les Caillerets, all of the 1994 premiers crus are superb. The sensational 1994 Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Canet is a gorgeously proportioned, lemony/orange, smoke, and hazelnut-scented wine with super-rich flavors, a texture that is nearly unctuous, and adequate acidity. The full-bodied finish lasts for 35-40 seconds. A dazzling example of white Burgundy, it should drink well for 6-7 years. The Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot in Pommard has emerged over the last few years as one of the up and coming stars, especially for white Burgundy. The 25 acres of vineyards are evenly split between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but Boillot has superb parcels in many of the top Puligny-Montrachet vineyards. The wines represent classic examples of white Burgundy, with good acid levels and terrific delineation and purity. I thought the 1994s to be the finest wines I have yet tasted from Boillot. Vineyard Brands, Inc., Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139; fax (802) 875-3566