2007 Puligny Montrachet Champ Canet

Tasted blind at Farr Vintners Kumeu/White Burgundy tasting. The 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet from Louis Carillon has clean, fresh and precise bouquet with hints of white flower and white peach infusing the citrus fruit. It is reserved at first, gently unfolding, never fully letting go but remaining beautifully focused. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with citrus lemon and walnut notes, more youthful than its peers with a long sustained finish. This is sophisticated and classy - a superb wine from the now divided estate.

Good pale color. Pure, subdued aromas of white peach, flowers and spices seem a bit blocked by sulfur dioxide. Pretty flavors of peach, flowers and minerals are framed by sound acids and supported by firm minerality. Offers sneaky intensity but finishes with a youthful hard edge that appears to be a function of the SO2 at bottling. Jacques Carillon noted that the estate has increased free SO2 levels to 50 parts per million since 2004.

Pale color. Musky aromas of marzipan and nuts, plus a whiff of mushroom. Sweeter and fatter than the village wines but with a slightly candied character today. I find this less pure than the Chassagne villages Finishes with modest real thrust. Seems disjointed today; I may have caught this in an awkward stage at the end of its malolactic fermentation.