2006 Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle (Duc de Magenta)

From a monopole of the Magenta estate (acquired by Jadot in the early 1980s) the 2006 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots Clos de la Chapelle Duc de Magneta offers a refined bouquet of apple blossom, gardenia, peach, hazelnut, and lemon. Creamy and refined on the palate, it perpetuates its ethereal, delicate, gentle themes in a ravishingly long finish. This offers a striking contrast to the “regular” Morgeot, and the two should be fascinating to follow in tandem over the next 3-5 years. A few barrels of Clos de la Chapelle had not even finished their alcoholic fermentation at the end of 2007. The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.) Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300

Captivating, soil-inflected nose offers vineyard peach, curry powder, dried herbs, fresh hazelnut, clove, white pepper and a petrolly note reminiscent of riesling. Sappy and complex but young in the mouth, with a subtle sweetness and an almost red wine texture. Rather low in acidity but conveys a tactile impression of strong dry extract. The sappy, hazelnutty quality carries through in the mouth. Finishes very long and rich. A beauty.

Monopole. The southern end of Chassagne-Montrachet’s mid slope strip of Premiers Crus is comprised of a patchwork of small parcels which fall under four Premier Cru appellations: seven are in Morgeot, totalling 18.2ha; seven in Brussones with 15.8ha; six in Baudriotte with 15.4ha; and two in Abbaye de Morgeot with 8.5ha. The Clos de la Chapelle covers 4.6ha in the Cru Abbaye de Morgeot and is solely owned by the Magenta family, of which 2.7ha are planted with Chardonnay. Cask sample. Very strongly mineral on the nose – rather tight and sleek and introvert. Just a bit muddy on the finish. (JR)