2004 Barolo Le Coste Mosconi

The estate's 2004 Barolo Le Coste/Mosconi is a big, fat wine loaded with scorched earth, tar, smoke and dark fruit. Made in a powerful, brooding style, this expansive fruit-driven Barolo isn't the last word on subtlety but it is awfully hard to resist. Parusso owns the vineyards in Le Coste and rents three parcels in Mosconi.

The estate’s 2004 Barolo Le Coste/Mosconi is a big, fat wine loaded with scorched earth, tar, smoke and dark fruit. Made in a powerful, brooding style, this expansive fruit-driven Barolo isn’t the last word on subtlety but it is awfully hard to resist. Parusso owns the vineyards in Le Coste and rents three parcels in Mosconi. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Marco Parusso aims to make elegant Barolos that emulate much of what he admires among his favorite Burgundy producers. The fruit gets a 2-3 day cold soak to allow the grapes to recover from what Parusso describes as the shock of being harvested. The wines are fermented at a lower temperatures than is the norm here in order to preserve freshness. Parusso works with natural yeasts and minimal amounts of SO2, leaving the wines on their lees for 16-18 months, another practice that is uncommon in these parts. As was the case throughout the region, the harvest was fairly late by today’s standards and the last of the Nebbiolo was brought in towards the end of October. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

Good deep red. Fresh strawberry, mocha, loam, spices, earth and nutty oak on the rich nose, with complicating notes of menthol and dried herbs. More powerful than the Mariondino, with intense but tightly wound flavors of raspberry and licorice. Finishes with big, broad tannins and a distinct youthful austerity.