2009 Barolo Sori Ginestra

Good bright medium red. Musky raspberry, strawberry and truffley underbrush on the nose; showing much more ripe-year character than the Mosconi. Then plush, seamless and sweet on the palate, with a compelling fleshiness to the cherry and soil flavors. The very long, slowly building finish features extremely fine tannins. Complex and complete for the year.

Commune of Monforte d’Alba. Concentrated ruby with orange tinges. Sweet oak, leather and hints of prune and cinnamon. Very backward but with a layer of ripe, complex fruit underneath the firm tannin. (WS)

Last in the lineup is the 2009 Barolo Sori Ginestra that incorporates many of the high points of the two wines described above. You get the toasted spiciness of the Barolo Vigna del Gris as well as the Nebbiolo brightness of the Barolo Mosconi. In between those two poles are shades of licorice, spice, balsam notes, crushed granite and cedar. The wine is stacked tall, one plush layer on top of the next and the palate is rewarded with a lovely quality of tannin that is firm and unyielding but also polished and tight at the same time. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2030. Importer: Empson, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900