2021 Brunello di Montalcino

The Il Poggione 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is fleshed out and rich, showing a velvety texture that is a signature of this estate. The wine’s added richness and volume provide a strong sounding board for ripe aromas of dark plum and blackcurrant. There is a phenolic bite to the tannins that I found across this vintage, suggesting that a few more years of bottle age are desirable. Farmed from vineyards on the warmer southern side of Montalcino, Il Poggione has long been known for producing Brunello of generosity, power and structure. The wine ages for 36 months in large oak casks using fruit from 25- to 30-year-old vines, with an ambitious production of 200,000 bottles.

The dark depths of rubbed sage, brown spice, chestnut and spiced blood orange give way to nuances of dried black cherry as the youthfully brooding 2021 Brunello di Montalcino slowly evolves in the glass. It is lifted in feel, soft textured and round, with pretty red berry fruits and cooling acidity as a vivid, gravelly mineral saturation penetrates the senses. This leaves an invigorating citrus twang to offset its fine-grained tannins as hints of spice linger through the long and surprisingly fresh finish. Bury this unbridled beast in the cellar.

Maturing mid ruby with narrow brick rim. Seemingly fast-maturing nose with notes of undergrowth and tobacco leaf and with an undertow of cherry. More youthful and energetic but not particularly full on the palate with heaps of gravelly tannins. It cannot entirely shake off the impression that it is progressing a little faster than it should. (WS)