2005 Château Batailley

The 2005 Batailley is dark in hue with little aging on the rim. The nose is backward, tight and almost "moody", piqued that it did not undergo a three- to four-hour decant. Firm tannins frame the palate. The oak may not be as assimilated as the best 2005s. Dark chocolate and espresso hints develop with time in the glass. It hasn't moved much since I last tasted it, and it is just a bit formulaic. But I would keep it cellared for several more years as Batailley, in great vintages, has a propensity to age. Tasted at lunch in London.

Old school charm, well balanced, pencil lead, crayon, graphite, cassis, plum, mint leaf, signature Batailley, bounding energy, in the way that Gloria was finessed classic St Julien, this plays the same role in Pauillac. Sums up why 2005 works - so drinkable today and yet will keep on delivering for 30 years. Love this. Doesn't shout out its presence, but it just exudes confidence and restrained power. 50% new oak, Denis Dubourdieu consultant, Philippe Castéja owner.

Deep garnet. Real freshness on the nose after the run of 2003s I have just been tasting! Good punch with a little gaminess. Tannins receding and just enough fruit in the middle. But no great length. (JR)