2002 Domaine Étienne Sauzet Montrachet Grand Cru

Aromatically more forthcoming than the Chevalier with concentrated, ripe apple and sweet peach aromas plus a touch of anise that merge seamlessly into powerful and very dense, massively scaled, sappy flavors that reveal layer after layer of complexity and depth. The focus is incredible and this both stains and completely coats the palate and the persistent finish arrives in wave after wave. This is not as elegant and pure as the Chevalier but it's awfully impressive just the same.

The creamed brioche-scented 2002 Montrachet bursts with spices, resiny minerals, pears, liquefied rocks, and anise. It is hugely powerful, dense, yet superbly balanced and precise. This light to medium-bodied effort may be more noble and refined than Sauzet’s 2002 Batard, yet it lacks that wine’s hedonistic characteristics. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2015. “I have only good things to say about 2002. It is the fourth in a series of good vintages, starting with the 1999s. There was no rot, great maturity, and excellent balance to add backbone,” said Gerard Boudot, Sauzet’s winemaker. He went on to add, “2002 is a very good vintage. Some people compare it to 1996, but those were much more austere wines. Some people speak of 1992, but it is livelier. Maybe it reminds me of 1985.” Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The creamed brioche-scented 2002 Montrachet bursts with spices, resiny minerals, pears, liquefied rocks, and anise. It is hugely powerful, dense, yet superbly balanced and precise. This light to medium-bodied effort may be more noble and refined than Sauzet’s 2002 Batard, yet it lacks that wine’s hedonistic characteristics. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2015. Feb 2004, www.robertparker.com